The Rock Church on the Parkway

A stone’s throw from the Blue Ridge Parkway, at mile post 180.1, down the road from Meadows of Dan, you’ll find a structure that will take you back in time. Mayberry Presbyterian Church is one of five historic rock churches located in Patrick, Floyd, and Carroll Counties.

The Story

Most people familiar with the Blue Ridge Parkway or southwest Virginia have heard the story of Rev. Bob Childress. He was a Presbyterian minister who lived in the area in the 1920s and 1930s. According to the story, Rev. Childress and his congregation built Mayberry Presbyterian and the other rock churches. The Reverend drove his Ford Model A from one church to the next to lead services on Sunday mornings.

The Church

Mayberry Presbyterian is simply beautiful. Small, clean, neat with an exterior made from rocks. According to the plaque on the front of the church, it was built in 1925 and it’s still home to Sunday services---every Sunday at 9 a.m. In fact, the church is led by Rev. Stewart Childress, the grandson of Rev. Bob Childress. What a cool story!

The quaint church has just 16 rows---eight on each side with an aisle in the middle and the altar in the front. It was designated a Virginia Historic Landmark by the Virginia Department of Historic Resources and placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the U.S. Department of the Interior in 2007.

Not much has changed since it was constructed over 80 years ago. Some security lights have been added. The church has heat and air conditioning now. Additional parking is in the works. When I was there two Saturdays ago, construction equipment had cleared the way for a new parking lot across the street from the church. Now, there’s a gravel parking lot adjacent to the church. Other than the lights it looks pretty much like it did in the 1920s.

Not the Only One

If you like Mayberry Presbyterian, jump back on the Blue Ridge Parkway and you’ll find Bluemont Presbyterian Church just 12 miles down the road at mile post 192. It, too, is one of the historic rock churches built by Rev. Childress.

Gonna Go Back in Time

Just looking at the church makes you feel as though you’ve gone back in time. It’s simple and perfect. The craftsmanship is outstanding. And the story of Reverend Childress and his congregation building the church is remarkable. If you really want the complete experience, take part in the 9 a.m. Sunday service.

The Underwater Community

The story of Fayerdale, an old mining town near Fairystone State Park, is really remarkable. When I first heard the story, I was fascinated, not so much by the story, but by its ending.

The Boom Town

The Patrick County town was born in the late 1700s. For decades the population remained in the low hundreds. But once the Virginia Ore & Lumber Corporation moved in, Fayerdale became a bustling community of 2,000 people including miners, railroad workers, and lumber employees. As mentioned in yesterday's post, when mining became modernized, the mine closed and that meant the end of Fayerdale. People moved away to find jobs.

Where is it Now?

Fayerdale had all the conveniences of a hopping community of the early 1900s. A train depot, general store, sawmill, post office, and a doctor's office were some of the landmarks of this mining town. But eventually everyone moved away, and the structures and buildings were vacant.

Here's the Interesting Part

So, what happens to an abandoned town? In this case, it sat there for some years. Then, in 1933 the area was donated to the Commonwealth of Virginia to be included in the state park system. As Fairystone State Park was being built, Fayerdale became Fairystone Lake! The Lake now covers what used to be the town of Fayerdale. I don't know about you but that blows me away. After learning about Fayerdale's fate, each time I'm in a canoe on Fairystone Lake, I always catch myself looking down to see if I can spot something. Maybe a railroad track or a sign from an old building.

Read All About It

There's an interesting book, The Fayerdale Tragedy: Fairystone State Park, that was written in 1983 by Elmer Haynes. It doesn't actually focus on the years that Fayerdale was growing. Instead it features some events that took place after the mine shut down. The photos in the book are great. It also includes old newspaper clippings. The story is interesting.

Next Time

There are some terrific stories out there and many come from Patrick County. But it's hard to imagine a story with a more interesting ending than the story of Fayerdale.

From Mining Town to Hiking Trail

When you hike any of the beautiful trails in the Stuart’s Knob Trail System at Fairystone State Park, it’s fun to imagine what took place there over a century ago. Today’s fantastic trails were once home to a bustling mining operation. The mine is closed off now but you can still peak inside.

Virginia Ore & Lumber Corp

Iron was mined in the hill directly across the road from Fairystone Lake from the late 1700s to the early 1900s. For almost 100 years, miners used picks and shovels to get the job done. There were little changes in how the work was completed until about 1905 when the steam engine arrived. In 1906, the Virginia Ore & Lumber Corporation was formed. The company modernized the operations and miners began using jackhammers powered by compressed air. Cable cars ran to the processing plant at the base of the hill. It suddenly became a top notch, modern facility employing hundreds of men. Stuart’s Knob and the mine took off.

What a Blast

Suddenly, the little community of Fayerdale, population 100, grew almost overnight to a town of 2,000 people thanks to the mine, Virginia Ore & Lumber, and the steam engine. (Where the town is now is another story for a future post.) Anyway the community grew like crazy with a post office, a depot for Norfolk & Western Railroad, a store, a blacksmith shop, and even a doctor’s office. The place was hopping and all of the growth happened very quickly. Over 400 miners lived there as did over 1,000 lumber and railroad employees.

That was Fast

Just as things were really moving, everything suddenly stopped. In 1911, processed iron was available for the same price Virginia Ore & Lumber was charging for raw iron ore. That was the kiss of death for the business, the mine, and the miners. Mining operations ceased. People moved away and by 1920 the community of Fayerdale was no more.

Fairystone Now

In 1933 the land was donated to the Commonwealth of Virginia to be included in the new state park system. Stuart’s Knob, where the mine is located is now a system of trails that is absolutely beautiful. There are several look-outs where you can get a great view of Fairystone Lake or other parts of the park.

There’s a parking area at the trail head. The maps and directions there are excellent. Signs along the trails explain the story of Stuart’s Knob, the mine, and the community of Fayerdale.

See any Miners?

According to the signage in the area, there are many clues left behind that tell the hiker there once was a working mine at Stuart’s Knob. As you walk, it’s easy to imagine the mine in operation and the miners and cable cars going up and down the hill. Enjoy the hike!

Springtime at Fairystone

What a great time of the year in the Fairystone area. Spring is doing its best to spring. The Redbuds are practically jumping out of the landscape and grabbing attention. It's pretty difficult to miss those purple flowers when they're surrounded by all the other trees and plants that are green and a little bit of gray.

Weekend at Fairystone

Fortunately, I was able to spend the weekend at the Fairystone Cabin. Saturday may have been the nicest day of 2009. The sun was out and the temperatures were in the seventies. The hiking in Fairystone State Park early Saturday morning was perfect. After a great morning hike on Stuart's Knob it was time to take the top off the Jeep and head to the Blue Ridge Parkway for the afternoon.

Some Great Sites

Stuart's Knob is an interesting story. I'll write about that soon. In addition, I visited a couple of very cool places on and near the Parkway. I'll share some photos and the stories that go along with them in the next few weeks.

Go Now!

This is such a great time to visit the area. It's never really over-run with people or tourists, even at the height of the season, but it's especially quiet and beautiful now through the next few weeks. If you can visit the area, I highly recommend you do so---soon!

PBS Tonight: Appalachia Part Two

PBS is the place to be tonight. Part two of the incredible documentary, Appalachia: A History of Mountains and People airs on most PBS stations later this evening. Check your local listings as they say.

Part One was Great

I wrote a post about part one last week. Incredible television! The pictures were beautiful. Most of the first part of this four-part series dealt with the geological beginnings of the Appalachians, the oldest mountains on earth. The numbers and facts shared were extremely interesting. The mountains of southwest Virginia were specifically mentioned in last week's program.

New Green World

Tonight's second part is called, New Green World. It will showcase some of the first people who lived in the mountains. Native Americans were the first, of course, but then came road builders, cabin builders, pioneers, and Europeans. People like George Washington arrived. Tonight, we'll learn about those people and their struggles.

This is Huge

How popular is this series on PBS? It's huge. I have a friend who works at a Virginia public TV station. She says it's a gigantic hit---all over the country. It's even on Facebook so it must be big, right? Whether you saw part one last Thursday night or not, I encourage you to watch tonight. It's really great television.

Have a Great Weekend

I'm headed to the Fairystone Cabin tomorrow for the weekend. Beautiful weather in a beautiful place. I can't wait! Best wishes for a fantastic weekend.

Earth Day Pledge

Earth Day is coming. The official day is April 22nd although most Earth Day activities are taking place on Saturday the 18th. I usually take my children for a hike in Fairystone State Park or volunteer to clean up a nearby trail on Earth Day. This year, though, I wanted to do something different on Earth Day. So, I decided to make a commitment---something that will challenge me and hopefully make a difference.

Git-R-Done

After examining a list of meaningful things I could do to support Mother Earth, I’ve decided that I’m going to stop using plastic bags. I know this isn’t the most incredible thing you’ve read today, and it won’t make headlines, but it’s a big step for me.

Nothing Good About Them

I always knew plastic bags were harmful to the environment but I didn’t know to what extent until I did some checking. This may be old news to you but it opened my eyes.

*People use 500 billion plastic bags each year
*It takes 20 years for plastic bags to break down
*The EPA says only 1% of plastic bags are ever recycled (20% for paper bags)
*The raw material in plastic bags is oil---making us more oil dependent
*A chemical in plastic bags, is linked to cancer, diabetes, and heart disease
*There are more pieces of plastic bags than food in some parts of the ocean
*Some animals mistake plastic bags for food, they eat them, and they die

In the Woods

If you hike, you’ve seen it. You’re walking along, looking at the incredible scenery when something tan or white catches your eye. You look closer and there’s a plastic bag stuck to a branch or under a rock. It’s bad enough that it’s there but unless you go pick it up, it will be there for several years.

Stupid Drawer

I use plastic bags often---rarely at the Fairystone Cabin---but rather at our full time home. We have a huge kitchen drawer there jammed full with them. Last week, the drawer wouldn’t close all the way because some plastic bags fell over the back of the drawer and underneath it, stopping it from closing by an inch. After slamming the drawer closed, only to have it pop open, about 20 times, I began asking myself why we kept all those bags.

So, with Earth Day fast approaching and a kitchen drawer at home that won’t close I thought it might be time to give it a shot. No more plastic bags. I’ve been able to live without them, for the most part, at the cabin. Now it’s time to go plastic bag-free every day.

(Photo by Burton Floyd Photography)

Appalachian Mountains on PBS

Southwest Virginia made national television last night. I hope you had a chance to watch the first part of Appalachia: A History of Mountains and People on PBS. Southwest Virginia was specifically mentioned in the documentary.

Watch and Learn

The videography was truly awesome. Last night's segment, which dealt with the geological beginnings of the mountains, was interesting---way more interesting than I expected from a lesson in geology. They explained how continents shifted and moved into their current state. While doing so, the Appalachian Mountains were formed. The documentary is narrated by Virginia resident and actress Sissy Spacek.

That's Old!

According to the program, the mountains of southwest Virginia are one billion years old. Trees began to grow here 200 million years ago. The first humans lived here about 14,000 years ago.

The Indians were first to arrive. The documentary said they were a very advanced and complex society that had the tools necessary to survive and thrive. Then the Europeans, led by Spain's Hernando De Soto, came. Unfortunately, they brought European diseases with them and half the native population died.

Incredible Hunting

It's hard to imagine but the scientists interviewed on the broadcast said the first animals to live in the Appalachians were camels, elephants, and sabertooth tigers. Imagine walking out the cabin door and seeing that. From that piont on, every species, whether human or beast, found the mountains to be a wonderful source of life. They said no other mountain region anywhere in the world supports the kind of life that is supported by the Appalachians.

Indian Name

The Appalachian Mountains got their name from the Alpalche Indians. According to the documentary, in 1560, the Indian name became the mountains' name and, early on, they were known as the Apalation Mountains.

What's Next?

Last night's segment was the first in a series. With the geological explanation completed, the program will focus more on the people and history of Appalachia. In most parts of Virginia, the documentary will air on PBS the next few Thursdays at 9 p.m. but as they say, check your local listings.

The series looks like it will be educational and entertaining. It made for great television last night and was especially interesting knowing that much of the porgram was discussing land that is near and dear to us.

(Photo by Burton Floyd Photography. See the link on the right.)

Round the Mountain to Region's Artisans

There are some incredible artisans in this part of country. When spending a Saturday afternoon in downtown Stuart a while back, I heard about Round the Mountain. It’s a program under the Virginia Works Initiative that began in 2004 to assist the artisans in southwest Virginia with marketing, educational, and entrepreneurial opportunities. It is establishing a craft trail network, much like the Crooked Road does with music, through 19 counties in this part of the Commonwealth. Patrick County, where the Fairystone Cabin is located, is one of the counties.

The Round the Mountain Web Site

If you’re into pottery, photography, painting, crafts, homemade preserves, road side produce stands and the like, you’ll want to check out the Round the Mountain web site, http://www.roundthemountain.org/. It lists a bunch of events along the route where you can meet the farmers and artists and see their goods.

For example, the first event I clicked on was “Art Off the Wall,” a show that features seven artisans in seven different three-dimensional media: clay, wood, stone, stained glass, fabric, metal, and lampwork glass beads. It takes place in Floyd, May 1st through May 3rd. Pretty cool! There are many events like that on the site.

Artists in the Fairystone Cabin

When we began furnishing the Fairystone Cabin, we decided we would do our best to buy things that came from Virginia. The artists and craftspeople are so talented here, why not enjoy their work in the cabin? Most of our furniture, crafts, pottery, photos, and paintings are from south and west Virginia. (A few things came from central Virginia and the Shenandoah Valley.) Traveling to the communities around Fairystone to make the cabin a home has been fun. We’ve seen cool places, met some great people, and learned much about the region.

On a Roll

The first “art” we purchased for the cabin was a series of nature photos taken by Burton Floyd, an incredibly talented photographer and friend from the Shenandoah Valley. His work has been featured in Blue Ridge Country Magazine. http://www.burtonfloyd.com/ The photo at the top of this post is one of his.

Hanging his photos in the cabin gave us the idea of staying “local,” or at least staying “Virginia.” We followed the photos with a painting of Mabry Mill that we found in downtown Stuart. Then a candle holder we came across in Floyd. A cool handmade vase, also from Floyd, came next. We were off and running. The furniture is from Bassett, Rocky Mount, and Roanoke. A painting by P. Buckley Moss brought some central Virginia into the mix.

It’s All Right Here

This region has so much to offer with the incredible music, trails, lakes, rivers, mountains, and scenery. Don’t forget to add art to the list.

The Story of the Fairy Stone

When you tell people about fairy stones, they give you that “bless his heart” look. They tilt their heads, smile, and whisper to themselves, “He expects me to believe there are rocks shaped like little crosses near his cabin.” When you tell them the part about the fairies, they wonder if you just took a major blow to the head.

The Geological Answer to Fairy Stones

If you’re familiar with the Fairystone area, you know that the little stones shaped like crosses, are, in fact, real. They can be found in Fairystone State Park. There is an answer to why the stones look the way they do. They are staurolite. When staurolite crystallizes, it does so at and angle which makes it look like a cross. I have no idea what I’m talking about here, but those who do say in order for a rock to take on that shape it must have experienced intense heat and pressure, the kind the earth’s crust experienced when the Appalachian Mountains were formed.

Shapes and Sizes

There are four types of fairy stones:

Single---it looks like a one-inch, mini 2 x 4
Maltese---a cross or bow tie inside a solid frame
St. Andrews---shaped like an X
Roman---the most sought-after; a cross

How Can You Find Them?

The best way to find fairy stones is to go on one of the guided hunts that Fairystone State Park offers. You’ll meet at the Park’s Visitor’s Center then drive your own vehicle to a site a few miles away, on Route 57. Then, the guide will take you into the woods, which is actually part of the Park. You’ll find the tour guide to be helpful, knowledgeable and incredibly patient. Patience is necessary because every three seconds someone holds up a rock and asks, “Is this something?” There next scheduled Guided Fairy Stone Hunts are on April 18th and 25th. Here’s a link for more information: http://www.dcrintra.state.va.us/dcr_forms/events/ViewEvent.cfm?id=6195 . If you don't want to go on the tour, you can go to the hunt site on your own.

Now for the Fairy Part

Rather than a geological explanation, some people prefer a story about how these unique stones made their way here. Legend has it that many centuries ago, fairies lived in a remote area of the Blue Ridge Mountains. One day when playing, an elfin messenger came from far away. He told them of the death of Jesus. As the fairies heard the story of the crucifixion, they wept. When their tears fell to earth, they crystallized and formed stone crosses.

Sorry About the Photo

I’ll admit I’m not the best fairy stone hunter. When we go, I usually end up wondering around the woods instead of looking down. The photo at the top of this post includes two Maltese, the stones with the bow ties in them.

If you have a photo of a Roman, please send it to me and I’ll happily replace the current photo here on the blog.

Have Fun

Little stones that look like crosses. Very unusual and unique to the Fairystone Area. It’s fun to look for them, identify them, and trade them. If you find a great example of a Roman, people are more likely to believe you about fairy stones and fairies, too. Enjoy the hunt.

Richmond Times Features Crooked Road

I was excited to see a full page story about the Crooked Road in Sunday's (April 5th) edition of the Richmond Times. http://www.timesdispatch.com/rtd/travel/regional/article/S-ROAD05_20090401-203837/246700/It was written by Bill Lohmann who has been covering travel and feature stories in Virginia for years. I wrote about the Crooked Road a couple of blog posts ago. Four of its major sites are close to our cabin. Lohmann's online story includes a link to a great slide show about the Road.

Crooked Road Sites

In his article, Lohmann lists eight sites along the Crooked Road and he also includes what he calls "partners"--- places along the Road like the Dairy Queen in Rocky Mount where you can find live bluegrass every Thursday from 9 to 10 a.m. in addition to weekly jams.

We Had No Idea

When we bought our cabin a few years ago, we purchased it because of it's proximity to Fairystone State Park---right next door---and all the great things the Park has to offer. Knowing the Blue Ridge Parkway was close by was also a factor. But we had no idea that it was on the Crooked Road. Talk about luck!

Spreading the Word

Stories like the one in yesterday's Richmond Times certainly help inform others about this incredibly unique and important stretch of road that connects to the roots of country music. I've seen and heard more and more stories in the media about the Road in the last couple years. The people in charge of the marketing it are doing an excellent job. Hopefully, especially as people vacation a little closer to home this year, Virginians and North Carolinains will take advantage of this wonderful stretch of American history.